Both ethnic hair and skin care are hot topics in the beauty industry today for a variety of reasons. According to Tonya Roberts, multicultural analyst at Mintel, Black consumers, historically, are not necessarily looking for the fountain of youth.


“They tend to embrace aging more so than other consumers,” she explained. “Those who use anti-aging products are motivated by different factors. In most cases, Blacks aren’t typically proactive when it comes to anti-aging, rather they are very reactionary.”
But it’s a different story in hair care.


“The movement toward natural hair, whether natural hair weave or all-natural styles, is making Blacks a lot more conscious about ingredients,” she said. “They are looking to restore damaged hair and make it healthy—and they’re looking for results.”


The multicultural beauty products market continues to outpace the growth of the overall market for cosmetics and toiletries, posting a 3.7% increase in 2014, according to global consulting and research firm Kline & Company, as rapidly growing ethnic populations have given way to intensified competition and multicultural beauty marketers breaking boundaries.


“This widening approach helps move multicultural brands beyond the ethnic section of the beauty aisle to sit side-by-side with nationally advertised brands,” said Donna Barson, senior associate at Kline’s Consumer Products practice. “However, this audience expansion needs to be done without alienating long-time consumers who might feel deserted if they feel like their brand no longer speaks exclusively to them.”


Recent data from Information Resources Inc. (IRI) shows that ethnic personal care is on the rise, as sales increased 4.3% to $639.4 million in total US multi-outlets (supermarkets, drugstores, mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains) for the 52 weeks ended Jan. 11, 2015. The overwhelming majority of sales is due to African American hair care, where sales increased 4.4% to $522.4 million. Other components of ethnic personal care include skin care products that increased 3.9% to $101.4 million; African American shaving products, which rose 2.9% to $10.7 million; and Hispanic and all other hair care that rose 3.4% to $4.8 million, according to IRI.


A Colorful World
The growth rate is encouraging more players into the market. Walgreens and Maesa, in collaboration with Actress Eva Mendes, recently rolled out Circa, a line of professional color cosmetics. According to the company, the color assortment appeals to the varying needs of a multicultural market, with shades designed to work across the lightest to darkest of skin tones, through the use of high-performance formulations, rich pigments and innovative technologies offered at more affordable prices. The nationwide launch supports Walgreens desire to increase accessibility to affordably-priced, diverse, specialty beauty offerings.


“I’ve been involved with the beauty industry for a long time and wanted to help create a cosmetic line that could reach a wide variety of women—when Maesa approached me, I knew that opportunity had arrived,” said Mendes, who serves as Circa’s creative director. “As a Latin woman, it was important to me that we create a line of products that work for all women and is accessible without compromising quality.”


The portfolio includes offerings across the eye, lip and face categories, with 133 SKUs in total.


“Our customers are continually searching for quality products at an affordable price, and we’re thrilled to offer Circa as part of our ever-expanding portfolio,” said Shannon Curtin, group vice president, Walgreens personal care and beauty. “This collaborative cosmetics line is bringing the Walgreens shopper the slice of luxury she’s looking for at a price point she values.”


Another big name in the mass market is Iman Cosmetics. The color collection revealed its newest additions at the brand’s first exclusive beauty blogger launch event held at in New York City’s Chelsea neighborhood. Recognizing bloggers’ power and influence, the brand provided makeovers, live demos, “selfie” stations and live streaming accessible internationally.


“There is no more exciting way to celebrate this bold new collection launch than with the voices of the beauty industry, bloggers, who are a critical part of our marketing strategy,” said Iman Cosmetics’ general manager Desiree Reid.


More than 35 bloggers representing Asian, African American, Caribbean, Hispanic and Indian audiences attended with approximately 20 virtual bloggers by live stream from London, Philadelphia, Los Angeles, Miami, Atlanta, Phoenix, Chicago, St. Louis, Houston and Tampa.


The collection, which includes new eyeshadow pencils in six bold colors with twist-bottoms, and two paraben-free mascara SKUs, is available on Drugstore.com, Target.com and Walgreens.com, as well as in select Walgreens/Duane Reade stores.


Vapour Organic Beauty, a natural personal care company, also is targeting the ethnic beauty market with a new collection, Hue Beauty, for women of color curated by Emmy-nominated, green beauty expert and writer Karim Orange. The collection is a mixture of colors to complement one’s complexion and transitions perfectly from day to evening, according to the company. Products span from a mineral foundation in a variety of shades to a deep burgundy lipstick.


There is also nail news in the ethnic beauty segment this season. YNC Yenzah Nail Color is an exclusive nail polish collection that contains real diamond particles to provide stylish and sophisticated nails. Camila Coelho, one of the world’s most famous Brazilian beauty bloggers based in the US, joins YNC Yenzah Nail Color for this exclusive collection. The YNC Collection by Camila Coelho has four colors that follow the spring and summer fashion trends in Brazil; Coelho named all the shades and serves as the brand’s ambassador. YNC Yenzah Nail Color is available online at www.rickysnyc.com.


The internet is a major mover of ethnic personal care. For example, global beauty brand Black Opal, which is big at stores like Walmart, CVS/Pharmacy, Rite Aid and Duane Reade, recently introduced a new multimedia campaign called “I Define My Beauty” aimed at empowering, engaging and inspiring women of all complexions to express their individuality and embrace their unique look.


According to Black Opal artistic director Merrell Hollis, “I Define My Beauty is about rejecting the stereotypes and myths that other people put on you. It’s a movement to educate women of all complexions, ethnicities and ages to take chances and feel confident—whether they go for subtle mauve or saturated fuchsia, the choice is yours not someone else’s.”


Throughout the campaign, Black Opal will encourage women to join in the conversation via social media by following the conversation on Twitter and Instagram @blackopalbeauty and participate by sharing their “I Define My Beauty” stories using the hashtag #IDefineMyBeauty.


The latest product launching from professional cosmetics brand Ofra targets all shades of beauty. The Ofra Professional Contouring and Highlighting Cream Foundation Palette, ideal for a makeup artist kit, is perfect to contour and highlight facial features but also doubles as a cream foundation palette and a concealer. This palette comes with six pigmented colors suitable for all skin tones.


“Our skin care line chemists have over 50 years combined experience in producing top products to suit the needs of ethnic skin. We supply 23 countries with dark or ethnic skin tones like South Africa, Mauritius and Pakistan and we formulate products to suit these skin tones,” said Ofra Gaito, president, Ofra, Pompano Beach, FL. “We are careful that our makeup products do not turn ashy on ethnic skin tones and manufacture only premiere products for them beginning with the first step, moisturizers, to foundations, bronzers and shimmers.”


Canvasing the Face—And Beyond
For decades, women of color have depended on Ambi Skincare to help their skin look flawless. Now, that task has just become easier than ever with the introduction of Even & Clear CC+ Cream Even Tone Environmental Shield—the first color product in the Ambi Skincare line. Specially formulated to match the rich tones of women of color, this rich CC+ Cream contains argan oil, shea butter and antioxidants to moisturize the skin, said the company.


There are many benefits about this new multi-tasking product, according to Laurence Dryer, Ph.D., director of portfolio development and head of R&D for Valeant Pharmaceuticals, North America OTC skin care products. One is that the cream features broad-spectrum SPF 30 sunscreen protection from UV rays that can accelerate the formation of fine lines and wrinkles. This sunscreen is formulated not to leave the skin looking ashy or gray in shades light/medium and medium/dark.


“The addition of SPF 30 is significant,” explained Dryer, “because many CC creams offer sunscreen with only SPF 20 and may leave a chalky residue on the skin. Ambi CC+ Cream provides a higher level of sun protection with quality pigments, without sacrificing a luxurious feel and great coverage.”


Also utilizing broad-spectrum SPF 30 sunscreen is the Age Affirm Firming Day Cream, a new addition to Nuance Salma Hayek, a beauty line created by the actress that is exclusive to CVS/pharmacy. Age Affirm Firming Day Cream pairs intense hydration with broad-spectrum protection from harmful UV rays and environmental stressors. Several natural emollients, including jojoba seed and olive oils, oat kernel extract and aloe vera help visibly soothe and calm the complexion as SPF 30 sunscreen shields against sun damage. Exclusive Rose Petal Complex is the formula’s hero ingredient, incorporating botanical extracts derived from rose petals, violet leaf and lavender flower. According to the brand, these ingredients help smooth and firm sagging skin, reduce the appearance of deep lines, wrinkles and dark spots and reveal a brighter, firmer complexion.


As Palmer’s Skin Success recently celebrated 175 years in the skin care business, it seemed only fitting that the range got a fresh, new look this past year. Palmer’s Skin Success Anti Dark Spot Fade Creams hit shelves in 2014 with bright, new packaging and advanced formulas with added retinol. Now, the top-selling brand in the ethnic beauty marketplace is bulking up its hair care portfolio with new curl care products. The entire Shea Formula Moisture Repair Curl range is free of parabens, sulfates, mineral oil and phthalates and each packs a delicious warm vanilla fragrance, said the company. Products include a shampoo, conditioner and styling cream.


“The changing of the season seems to precipitate a desire to make a change in our appearance. Especially coming out of the cold winter months, I think women are eager to experiment more, but most importantly get their hair and skin back in shape for the warmer season months,” explained Shara Violet Boote, senior product manager of parent company E.T. Browne Drug Co., Englewood Cliffs, NJ. “Spring’s fashion trends of reconnecting with nature in the form of bold floral prints and bright pops of color goes hand in hand with hair and skin care trends of natural styles, bouncy curls and flaunting gorgeous, healthy-looking skin.”


From Textures to Twists
Girls with curls use more products. A recent study by The Benchmarking Company found that 43% of women have curly, or ethnically curly hair. With that, 67% use hair care products specifically for curly hair, 79% use frizz reduction styling products and 54% use a curl defining styling product.


Curls, a natural hair care brand that’s big at stores like Target, launched an empowerment campaign, “Curls Girls Rule the World!” in correlation with the debut of its latest creation, Blueberry Bliss Curl Control Jelly. With the success of its Blueberry Bliss Curl Control Paste, this new styler provides shine, control and prevents breakage, according to the company.


“Hair products formulated with ingredients that have clinical and other supporting data proving their benefits are performing well in the market. A few key ingredients that are doing well are Monoi de Tahiti, castor oil and blueberry extract. The former two ingredients have been recently used in ethnic formulations, the latter is largely untapped,” said Curls CEO and founder Mahisha Dellinger. “Curls has decided to bring blueberry extract and all of its tremendous benefits to the forefront.”


These benefits are significant, especially regarding the current hair care needs for women of color, added Dellinger. The proantocyanidins, which is the plant chemical found in blueberries, interacts with hair follicles to accelerate growth and slow down hair graying, breakage and loss. Blueberries are also rich in vitamin C and B Complex, which is good for increasing hair growth by providing oxygenation and circulation of the blood to the body, particularly the scalp.


Carol’s Daughter, which transformed the hair of people with curly locks with the 2014 rollout of Marula Curl Therapy Collection, has become a part of the L’Oréal family. Now, the popular textured hair care brand is adding Mirabelle Plum to its repertoire. This new line of moisture- and biotin-rich restorative hair products will join its family of high-quality, affordable products at Target.


Created by founder Lisa Price, the Mirabelle Plum Healthy Growth & Max Hydration collection brings the best of both worlds: the intense moisturizing power of plums, hydrating deeply into the hair follicle as well as fortifying ingredients like biotin and olive oil for healthy hair growth. Products span from shampoos and conditioners to masks and oil treatments.


Also bulking up its portfolio of hair helpers is professional brand Mizani. Its breakthrough Fiberfyl Fiber Strengthening System is billed as the company’s first transformative, strength boosting in-salon and at-home treatment that progressively strengthens over-processed, color treated hair, transitioning hair prone to breakage and all hair types lacking strength and elasticity. Formulated with innovative Filloxane Technology, a revolutionary molecule that interacts with keratin, the protein that forms the essential part of the hair. It envelops the hair fiber as a reconstructive web that repairs the hair from the inside out.


 The Mizani Fiberfyl Fiber Strengthening System, consisting of two distinct products, includes a Fiberfyl Fiber Strengthening Treatment with 5% Filloxane; as well as the Fiberfyl Essential Strengthening Fix, a styling primer cream formulated with 2% Filloxane. Ceramides also help strengthen, treat and repair damaged tresses.


The Kinky-Curly company added a new treatment to its lineup that also addresses breakage. The new Stellar Strands Deep Hydrating Treatment is enriched with macadamia and argan oil for intense moisture and shine. Also, Smooth ‘N Shine Silk Style Foaming Wrap Lotion—sold at stores like Family Dollar and Walmart—features a quick drying formula to provide added protection when using heat styling tools and gives hair a natural hold with body, movement and shine.


Ethnic Expansions
Once hard-to-find products designed specifically for curly hair and kinky hair types are now stocked on the shelves of mass market retail chains. For example, Alikay Naturals hair products will be added to the inventory of more than 7,000 professional quality products for hair, skin and nails offered to Sally Beauty Supply customers. This year marks the debut of Alikay Natural’s Moisture Rich Hair Parfait, Lemongrass Leave-In Conditioner and Essential 17 Hair Growth Oil in select Sally Beauty Supply stores. 


“As far as what an ‘ethnic shopper’ would be looking for in her beauty products, I would say quality products that are made with ingredients that cater to their beauty needs,” noted Rochelle Graham, CEO and co-founder of Alikay Naturals, Fort Myers, FL. “It is important that ethnic beauty needs are not compartmentalized into one category. For hair, there are different variations of kinky, curly and wavy hair types that have different needs.” 


This concept is spreading throughout the industry. For example, Dove recently debuted the Dove Hair: Love Your Curls campaign and film, which encourages women to celebrate, love and take pride in their curly hair. The Love Your Curls film draws on a selection of unique stories that powerfully illustrate the relationship young girls have with their curls.


Dove Hair is introducing the Love Your Curls campaign in tandem with the launch of its new range of nourishing products for curly hair, Dove Quench Absolute. The system—Dove Quench Absolute Ultra Nourishing Shampoo and Conditioner, Dove Quench Absolute Supreme Crème Serum and Dove Quench Absolute Intensive Restoration Mask—is said to deliver more defined, natural curls and provides five key benefits for all curl needs, including improved manageability, quenched dryness, smoothness, strength and nourishment.


Meanwhile, the newest addition at Redken aims to fight frizz.  The new Frizz Dismiss hair care collection is said to deliver up to 82% less frizz after one use of Sulfate-Free Shampoo, Conditioner and FPF 30 Instant Deflate after 24 hours. Featuring Redken’s Frizz Protection Factor (FPF), which is billed as the first-ever professional scale that allows you to choose the protection you need based on your hair type and humidity level, Frizz Dismiss also features Redken’s new Humidity Resist Complex, a breakthrough technology straight from the labs in Brazil. This complex contains a combination of Aquatoril, a molecule that repels humidity and locks in moisture, with Brazilian Pracaxi Oil, which smoothes, nourishes and strengthens hair for lasting manageability and frizz control. The chloride-free cleansing system is formulated to be safe for chemically straightened hair, according to the company.


“Nearly all of my clients tell me how concerned they are about frizz. And, it’s not just those with thick, coarse or curly hair,” said Rodney Cutler, Redken brand ambassador and owner of Cutler/Redken Salons in New York. Sister brand Pureology recently launched a new family of six products called Curl Complete—also ideal for all hair types whether fine, course, kinky or wavy.


Salon brand KMS California is affixing two new products to its Curlup line in April—a leave-in conditioner and perfecting lotion.
Formulated with pressure-activated technology, Curlup perfecting lotion contains flexible polymers that stretch with hair’s natural curls, not against them. The polymers are activated simply by scrunching, keeping curls bouncy, bundled, and perfectly defined, said the company. 


What’s Ahead for Skin and Hair?
During the forecast period through 2019, the ethnic beauty market will face intense competition from general cosmetic and toiletry brands, and the fine line between mainstream and multicultural markets will continue to blur, contended Barson of Kline’s Consumer Products practice. However, competition will provide an incentive for a surge of innovative, quality products entering the market.


“The movement of mainstream companies into the multicultural space will not only open possibilities of more M&A in the coming years, but it will also be beneficial for consumers as they will be provided with a wider array of products targeting their needs,” she explained. “Smaller multicultural companies will also need to innovate in order to gain sales and create a niche for themselves or position themselves for a potential acquisition. In addition, the competition coming from the general market is also blurring the lines and having a challenging impact on the multicultural marketers.”


 Boote of E.T. Browne noted that social media will continue to be an impacting factor on the beauty category.


“Women are connecting with ‘vloggers’ and online beauty gurus to get daily tips about products and styling,” she said. “I am also confident that the movement of going natural is here to stay and we will continue to see more women embracing their natural texture.”


Dellinger of Curls agreed.


“I see restorative hair care trending high in 2016 and beyond,” she told Happi. “As more and more ethnic women transition out of relaxing and long term weave and extensions, restoration of one’s healthy hair will be key for newly natural women.”   


As the market evolves, so too, is its definition.


According to Graham of Alikay Naturals, “I am also hoping to see a lot more product categorized for ‘ethnic hair’ being respected and notated not only for certain ‘ethnicity’ groups but be categorized based of different ‘hair types.’ I’m sure other brands share this same dream.”